VENUE REPORT: Edinburgh pub revives old city street food dish

For people living in Edinburgh in the 19th century, Tweed Kettle – a wild salmon recipe – would have been a staple dish. Allegedly brought to the city by a Kelso woman for her modest eatery, the dish became popular at ale houses as well as being sold on the streets of Edinburgh.

St Andrews Brewing Co. Potterrow is now serving a revitalised version of the dish as part of its new menu.

Chef James Sherriff explained: “I’ve cooked lots of traditional Scottish dishes, and Tweed Kettle feels very light, fresh and surprisingly modern.

“It dates from around the same time that oysters and claret were widely consumed by the ordinary folk of Edinburgh, and it would have been made with wild salmon from the River Tweed, but we’re using the more sustainable sea trout.”

Tweed Kettle was a cheap and nutritious wild salmon dish made with foraged ingredients including lovage, sorrel, mace, potatoes, turnip and butter cooked together in a fish kettle and served a little like a soup or a pie filling.

Sherriff has refined the presentation, using the lovage and sorrel as a crust for the baked fish, and adding a splash of cream, some chanterelles and fresh peas for extra layers of texture and flavour.

The Fife-based brewery currently operates four bars in St Andrews and Edinburgh. A fifth bar is scheduled to open at Dundee’s Caird Hall in November and at 8,000sqft will be one of Scotland’s largest craft beer bars.

James Sherriff, executive sous chef and Callum Phillip, executive head chef
James Sherriff, executive sous chef and Callum Phillip, executive head chef

At the frontline of modern Scottish hospitality brands, the company aims to create a new generation of welcoming bars that serve the best Scottish beer, gin and whiskies alongside a menu that celebrates the wonderful produce available in Scotland.

Founded in 2012, its initial aim was to revive a tradition of beer brewing in St Andrews that flourished in the 19th century but ceased to exist in 1901.

Longing to find a local beer 111 years later, St Andrews restaurateur Tim Butler discovered a fledgling brewery operating from a garage, and was so impressed he joined the business to help grow it.

Butler took the beers on the road to trade fairs and festivals, and began selling casks to local pubs. Word quickly spread and awards flooded in, prompting him to open the first St Andrews Brewing Co. pub in 2013.

Two years later, the brewery moved to larger premises in the heart of St Andrews, and by 2015 the business employed a full-time team at the brewery. The same year, managing director Phil Mackey joined the business.

The team currently produces a core range of five session beers alongside an eclectic range of artisan beers, barrel-aged finishes, sours and saisons. Draft and bottles can be found in the best bars and venues in Scotland and the St Andrews Brewing Co. lager will make its debut in 2019.

www.standrewsbrewingcompany.com

 

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